Little Fitting Guide From: theshapesoffabric.com Table of contents General rule

Little Fitting Guide From: theshapesoffabric.com Table of contents General rule....................................................................................................................................................2 Fitting Skirts & Pants Skirt/pants too long or short.................................................................................................4 Higher/lower hipline...........................................................................................................................6 Hip circumference too small/large.................................................................................8 Waist circumference too small/large..........................................................................9 High hip curve.............................................................................................................................................10 Larger thighs at sides.........................................................................................................................11 Sway back............................................................................................................................................................12 Prominent belly..........................................................................................................................................13 Full/flat buttocks.................................................................................................................................14 Fitting the crotch curve.............................................................................................................15 Fitting bodice Waist circumference..........................................................................................................................17 Waist level........................................................................................................................................................18 Hip circumference too small/large..............................................................................19 Correcting the bust point........................................................................................................20 Gaping armhole........................................................................................................................................21 Armhole height.........................................................................................................................................22 Rounded back fix....................................................................................................................................23 Shoulder line length........................................................................................................................24 Sloped vs. square shoulders......................................................................................................25 Fitting bodice chest & back.......................................................................................................26 Small bust..........................................................................................................................................................27 Large bust.........................................................................................................................................................28 Sleeve length...............................................................................................................................................29 Upper arm width adjustment...................................................................................................31 1 General rule “Follow the direction of the wrinkles.” Tight horizontal wrinkles are a telltale sign that there isn’t enough fabric to go around the body and the garment needs more room to the vertical seams. Tight vertical wrinkles mean that the garment is too short and you need to add more length. For example when the pants crotch level is too high up. To make things more confusing, the rule works in the opposite direction with loose wrinkles! Which basically means sagging. Loose horizontal wrinkles mean that the garment is too long. Loose vertical wrinkles tell you that the garment is too wide and needs to be taken in at the side seams. 2 fitting Skirts & Pants 3 Skirt/Pants too Long or Short For straight skirts, such as the skirt block, you just lengthen or shorten the hemline until it has the right length. If you are fitting a flared skirt you can consider using the same method as with the pants if you want to maintain the same hemline width. Otherwise, just follow the side seam inclination. c.front c.back c.front c.back 4 front pant back pant front pant back pant front pant back pant adjust knee level front pant back pant 1. 1. 2. 2. For pants there are two options, depending on how much you need to modify the length: If it’s only a bit, you can modify at the lower part only. Otherwise divide the amount on both sides of the knee line. In any case, check the knee level measurement afterwards. In the example above the pants become longer. Below, they become shorter. To shorten the pants you overlap the sections. Finally, adjust the lines. 5 Higher/Lower Hipline Similarly to the previous example you can also alter the hipline height. If it’s too high, the hip curves of your skirt/pants remain empty on the sides because the widest part of your hips is lower. The pants might also have the crotch seam too high up which causes it to pull. In the case of a pencil skirt then your hips might not fit as the skirt becomes narrower below the hipline. If the hipline is too low, your hips won’t fit as the widest part of the skirt/pants is lower than your hips. Therefore you’ll see some tight horizontal wrinkles form where your hips are. The skirt might hike up, too. Notice, that this modification changes the position of pants’ crotch level. If you wish to lower/raise the crotch level only, you can slash below the hipline. c.front c.back front pant back pant 6 c.front c.back c.front c.back Front pant back pant front pant back pant: lower hipline raise hipline raise hipline lower hipline 7 Hip Circumference too small/large Wrong hipline circumference is easy to notice when fitting. The hipline will feel either tight or loose. And there are wrinkles. When adding width to the hipline, just ensure that the difference between the waist and hip width doesn’t become too pronounced at the side seam. If this happens, you can widen the waistline, too, and make the darts bigger to compensate. c.front c.back c.front c.back front pant back pant front pant back pant 8 Waist Circumference too Small/Large To adjust the waist measurement, you can modify the darts, side seams and the c-back seam (+c-front for pants). Divide the measurement between different points. If one dart becomes too large, you can add a second dart and divide the dart width between the two. Take in at c-back if your skirt or pants gape there. c.front c.back 1. 2. 3. 4. c.front c.back 1. 2. 3. Make larger Make smaller front pant back pant 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. front pant back pant 1. 2. 3. 4. 9 High Hip Curve This refers to the hip curves that start almost right below the waistline. The way patterns are normally constructed the hipline curve is placed much lower, so the high hip curve needs some space added higher up. When fitting the skirt toile you should see tight wrinkles form at the upper part of the skirt as the fabric is pulling. The pants have diagonal wrinkles going towards the crotch seam. Keep the original waistline measurement, but change the hip curve shape adding space where needed. c.front c.back front pant back pant 10 Larger Thighs at Sides You might have wider thighs at the sides, which makes the circumference below the hips wider than your hip circumference is. So you simply need to move the widest part of the hip curve lower to accommodate the thighs. c.front c.back front pant back pant 11 Sway Back If you have a sway back, the skirt/pants will have too much length at the back which causes sagging under the waistline. The pants crotch might also be pulling towards the back. Therefore you need to shorten the c-back length slightly and for pants, maybe add some length to the back crotch line. back pant c.back dart becomes shorter 12 Prominent Belly This is a bit more complex modification. The garment is pulling at the front and needs more width and length in that area. For the skirt, the whole c-front line becomes wider all the way down to the hemline. But the pants have the crotch seam, so the c-front line becomes slightly rounded to allow space for the belly. Both skirt and pants c-front becomes longer. The waistline measurement remains the same as it was, because of the darts. If the darts become too large, add another dart. front pant front pant dart c.front c.front 13 Full/Flat Buttocks The full buttocks is similar to the previous correction. Only this time you need more space at c-back, both in length and width. For pants, you also need some more length at the crotch seam. If you happen to have flat buttocks, you can work in the opposite direction to eliminate sagging. c.back c.back c.back overlap overlap back pant back pant: increase increase reduce reduce 14 Fitting the Crotch Curve The crotch curve length and shape affect the fit of the pants in many ways. Here’s how to correct. back: curve more back: shorten back: lengthen front: curve less front: lengthen front: shorten front pant back pant Fabric gathers under the buttocks fabric sagging- pulling behind the legs fabric sagging- pulling in the front whiskers 15 fitting Bodice 16 Fitting the Bodice Waist The bodice waist might not always fit you right. It can be too tight or too large, or the waist level could end up too high or too low. These are simple issues to correct. Waist Circumference It’s recommended not to correct the bodice waistline all in one point, but you should rather divide the amount between different points: the front and back darts, and the side seam. In the case of taking in, you have also the c-back seam. Just notice that you can no longer cut the bodice back piece on the fold after that. c.front c.back 1 2 3 4 c.front c.back 1 2 3 smaller waist larger waist 17 Waist Level If the bodice waist level is too high or low, you can slice the front and back pieces as shown here, and then either add extra length or overlap the pieces to shorten. Adjust the lines and darts after you’re done. c.back c.front c.back c.front c.back c.front lower raise 18 Hip Circumference too small/large What if it’s the hip circumference that is too small or large? In this case you usually just have the side seams to correct, unless your pattern has princess seams. If you end up adding a large amount of extra width at the hip level, you might consider adding some at the the waist level as well to make the side seam more harmonious. Eventually you can then increase the waist darts. c.back c.front 19 Correcting the Bust Point Fitting bodice pattern also means checking that the bust point is placed correctly: If the bodice has the bust point all wrong, the darts will not be right either. They could be pointing too high up or too low, for example. To check the placement, you’ll need your bust level measurement and the distance between bust points. If one or both of these measurements isn’t correct, you can adjust the pattern as follows. In this example the actual bust point is lower and further away from c-front. After you’ve drawn the new bust dart, correct the waist dart as well. uploads/s1/ fitting-guide 2 .pdf

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Little Fitting Guide From: theshapesoffabric.com Table of contents General rule 0 0

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• Publié le Aoû 16, 2022
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