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KWIK•SEW ®'S SEWING ROOM SERIES MEASURING & BASIC ALTERATIONS Use the expertise

KWIK•SEW ®'S SEWING ROOM SERIES MEASURING & BASIC ALTERATIONS Use the expertise behind KWIK•SEW patterns to help achieve a perfect fit! “MEASURE FOR SUCCESS” Measuring the body and choosing the correct size pattern. INDEX How sizes are determined.................................. pg. 2 How to choose the right size..............................pg. 3 How to measure the body.................................. pg. 4 How to measure for finished length................... pg. 5 How to choose the correct fabric....................... pg. 7 “A PERFECT FIT” Making basic pattern adjustments INDEX Length Adjustments......................................... pg. 8 Width Adjustments........................................... pg. 9 Shoulder Adjustments...................................... pg. 11 Bust Adjustments............................................. pg. 12 Petite Size Adjustments................................... pg. 13 1 C ©Copyright MMVIII KWIK•SEW® Pattern Co., Inc. All Rights Reserved. Available online at kwiksew.com MEASURE FOR SUCCESS HOW SIZES ARE DETERMINED All KWIK•SEW patterns are multi-sized. On the back of the pattern envelope, Standard Body Measurements are listed below each size. The following body measurements are used to help determine which size to choose: Misses' and Women's tops, blouses, shirts, jackets and dresses by bust measurement. Skirts, pants and shorts by hip measurement. Men's shirts, jackets and robes by chest measure- ment. Pants and shorts by waist measurement. Girls' and Boys' by height. Toddler's by height. Babies' by height and weight. Patterns are designed for the following heights: Misses’and Women's sizing is for those approxi- mately 5’6” (168 cm). Men’s sizing is for those approximately 5’10” (178 cm). Children's and toddler's sizing include height for each size. Babies' sizing includes height and weight for each size. KWK•SEW patterns have great, easy to understand step-by-step written and illustrated instructions. For consistency in fit, every KWIK•SEW garment pattern begins with the same base size. Each pattern contains detailed design information and multiple sizes, each printed in a different color on durable white paper. 2 Use the following tips on taking body measurements and comparing them to the pattern measurements in order to choose the right size and producing a well fitting garment. • • • • • • • • • KWIK SEW ® ® DESIGNED BY: KERSTIN MARTENSSON 1/4" (6 mm) SEAM ALLOWANCES INCLUDED GRAIN OF FABRIC STRETCH OF FABRIC SHORTEN OR LENGTHEN LINE SHORTEN OR LENGTHEN LINE CENTER FRONT- PLACE ON FOLD SIDE SEAM N E C K LI N E SHOULDER A R M H O L E EASE BOTTOM EDGE 1” (2.5 cm) HEM ALLOWED XS S M L XL XS S M L XL XS S M L XL XS S M L XL PATTERN 3532 VIEW A & B FRONT CUT 1 ON FOLD 1. Measurement of finished garment at fullest part of BUST: XS 32" (82 cm) S 35 1/2" (90 cm) M 38 1/2" (98 cm) L 42" (106 cm) XL 46" (116 cm) Measurement of finished garment at fullest part of HIP: XS 34" (86 cm) S 37" (94 cm) M 40" (102 cm) L 43 1/2" (110 cm) XL 47 1/2" (120 cm) MEASURE FOR SUCCESS kwiksew.com 3 HOW TO CHOOSE THE RIGHT SIZE Choose the size with the measurements that are closest to the body measurements. If the body measurements are in between sizes, choose the larger size. It is easier to make a garment smaller than larger. On the back of the pattern envelope, there is a brief description of the design, indicating if the style is close fitting, loose fitting or semi-fitted. The Measurement of the Finished Garment will also help you decide what size to choose when body measurements are in between sizes. Finished measurements are printed on the pattern pieces. KWIK•SEW patterns are designed to fit the body measurements listed on the envelope, both fit and design ease have been taken into account by our design studio. EASE The extra amount of room allowed in the pattern There are different types of ease: Fit or movement ease is the amount of room need- ed for the garment to be comfortable to wear. Design ease is the extra amount of room (beyond fit ease) that gives the garment a certain style and this changes with fashion. Occasionally, the patterns are designed without extra ease, and the finished garment will be smaller than the body measurements. This occurs when a pattern is designed for fabrics with stretch, such as spandex Lycra®, and the garment, such as a swimsuit, is intended to stretch to fit the body. KWIK•SEW patterns have the Measurement of the Finished Garment printed on the pattern pieces. When comparing the Standard Body Measure- ments on the back of the pattern envelope to the Finished Garment Measurements on the pattern piece, it is easy to determine the amount of ease allowed in the pattern. For example: the Finished Garment Measurement is 40” (102 cm) and the Standard Body Measurement is 37” (94 cm); there is 3” (8 cm) of ease, or in other words, an extra 3” (8 cm) in the design for comfort and style. • • • After deciding what size to use, and when cutting or tracing the pattern pieces, always follow the same size on all lines and pieces. Never cut between sizes or "blend" sizes by cutting from one size to another. For more information visit www.kwiksew.com/support For optimum fit, it is very important that you follow the suggested fabric types on the back of the pattern envelope. MEASURE FOR SUCCESS kwiksew.com 4 HOW TO MEASURE THE BODY Accurate body measurements are key to making a garment that fits. When taking measurements, proper fitting undergarments should be worn. Use a flexible tape measure. Be sure to record each measurement as it is taken. It’s almost impossible to accurately measure your- self. If you are making the garment for yourself, have a friend measure you. HEIGHT—For adults and children, have the person stand against a wall without shoes; place a ruler straight across the head to the wall and mark. To measure a baby’s length, lay the baby on a flat surface, measure and mark from the top of the head to the bottom of the foot. BUST & CHEST—Measure around the back, under the arms and over the fullest part. The tape measure should be straight across the back. Arms should be resting at the sides of the body while measuring. NATURAL WAIST—Tie a string around the waist to determine the natural waist. Measure around the waist; don’t pull too tight, be sure the tape can move around. HIP—Measure over the fullest part of the hip, usually 7” – 9” (18 cm – 23 cm) below the waist. As each person’s body shape is different, the fullest part of the hip may be higher or lower. SHOULDER AND ARM LENGTH—Loosely place a string around the neck (where the string rests is the natural neckline). Bend the arm slightly, measure the shoulder from the natural neckline (string position) to the shoulder joint and continue over the elbow, down to the wrist bone. Note the shoulder width separately, the arm length separately, and the shoulder and arm length combined. BACK WAIST LENGTH—Measure from the top of the backbone (from the string position at the back of the neck), to the natural waist (where the string is tied around the waist). RISE (Crotch depth)—Have the person sit up straight on a flat table or a hard chair which does not have any curves in the seat. At the side, measure from the waist (where the string is tied around the waist) over the curve of the hip to the top of the table or chair. You can use any KWIK SEW pattern and adjust for petite sizes. Making adjustments for petite sizing is covered in Section II, "A Perfect Fit". The natural waist may not be at the same place as the top of your pants. Leave the string tied around the waist until all body mea- surements are taken. Remember, Misses' and Women’s pants and skirt sizes are determined by the hip measurement. Men’s pants sizes are determined by the waist measurement. SHOULDER AND ARM LENGTH BUST WAIST HIP BACK WAIST LENGTH 1 2 6 6a RISE TOP LEN SHOULDER AND ARM LENGTH BUST WAIST HIP BACK WAIST LENGTH 1 2 3 RISE TOP LENG SHOULDER AND ARM LENGTH BUST WAIST HIP BACK WAIST LENGTH 1 2 3 RISE MEASURE FOR SUCCESS kwiksew.com 5 HOW TO MEASURE FOR FINISHED LENGTHS The body or a favorite garment can be measured for the desired finished length. When measuring the body, measure for desired length as follows: TOPS—Measure from the top of the backbone to the desired length. SKIRTS—Measure from the waist to the desired length. Begin by placing the end of the tape at the position you wish the skirt to end, this will make it easier to read the measurement. PANTS—Measure the inside leg from the desired hemline to the crotch. When measuring a favorite garment, measure finished length as follows: TOPS—Choose a top with a neckline that rests at the top of the backbone when worn. Measure from the neckline to the finished bottom edge of the top. SKIRTS—Place skirt on a flat surface uploads/s3/ kwiksew-fit-guide.pdf