BD001B-2 Beading Guide 2 Simply Beads Kit-of-the-Month Club Cabochon Glue Half-

BD001B-2 Beading Guide 2 Simply Beads Kit-of-the-Month Club Cabochon Glue Half-Drilled Bead table of contents The Elements of Beaded Jewelry Believe it or not, archeologists have found beads dating as far back as 100,000 years ago. Today, beading is as popular as it’s ever been. Whether you are a beginner or an experienced beader, this beading guide has information, techniques and tips that will help you learn or sharpen existing beading skills. Packed with photos, illustrations and step-by-step how-tos, this is a reference guide that you will use again and again. Beading Guide The Elements of Beaded Jewelry..........2 Beads.................................................2 Bead Shapes. .................................2 Bead Types. ...................................3 Gemstones....................................3 Metals................................................4 Wire. .............................................4 Findings. ........................................4 Stringing Materials..............................6 Tools....................................................7 Beading Needles................................7 Wire & Metal-Working Tools..............7 Pliers..................................................7 Cutters...............................................8 Introduction to the 4-in-1 Tool. ...........9 Miscellaneous Tools. ...........................9 General Techniques. ...........................10 Inspiration. .........................................14 Color. ............................................... 14 Color Wheel. ............................... 14 Stringing a Great Design....................15 Necklaces. ........................................ 15 Bracelets & Anklets. .......................... 16 Earrings............................................ 16 6/0 8/0 11/0 15/0 Beads Bead Shapes Beads come in many shapes other than standard rounds. Beads are most commonly measured in millimeters (mm) such as 6mm, 8mm or 10mm. However, you’ll find in this section not all beads have holes and not all beads follow the millimeter rule. Half-drilled beads can be glued to findings and to the end of memory wire jewelry. Cabochons are a non-bead, because there is no hole that beaders use frequently. They can also be known as a cab, for short. It’s simple to use a cabochon. Just apply glue to a matching bezel and adhere. Seed beads are named for their size since they are about the same size as seeds. Seed beads are most commonly found in size 11/0; however, they can be as small as 18/0 (1.17mm) or as big as 1/0 (6.5mm). We usually call bigger seed beads—or sizes 4/0, 6/0 and 8/0—E beads. Seed beads can come in shapes like triangles, squares, cylinders and delicas. Delicas are very accurately cut seed beads that are usually used with bead SimplyBeadsKitClub.com 3 Squares Triangles Cylinders Hex 2-cuts Delicas stitches. Triangles, squares and cylinders can be used in stitches as well as string- ing designs. Other bead shapes: Round Oval Rondelle Heishi Teardrop Coin Lentil Cube Flat Rectangle Marquise Briolette Teardrop (Top Drilled) Donut Chips Pebbles Nugget Flat Square (Center Drilled) Bead Types Beads are made from many materials— some traditional and others less so. Glass Acrylic Bone & Horn Clay Crystal Felt Gemstones Metals Paper Pearls Shell Wood Gemstones Gemstones, once a traditional bead material for those of high social status, are now available at prices that make them affordable. It’s easy to think a sapphire is blue and a ruby is red, but most gemstones come in colors that we wouldn’t have imagined. And with today’s technology we have a plethora of shapes, cuts and facet possibilities. Here are some of the most common gems used today: Agate Amethyst Amber Calcite Carnelian Chalcedony Citrine Diamond Dumortierite Emerald Fluorite Garnet Goldstone Hematite Jade Jasper Kyanite Labradorite Lapis Lazuli Larimar Magnesite Moonstone Obsidian Onyx Opal Prehnite Pyrite Quartz Rhodochrosite Rhyolite Ruby Sardonyx Sodalite Tigereye Tourmaline Turquoise images Used with permission from dakota stones 4 Simply Beads Kit-of-the-Month Club Karats (Kt) Karat Graph 24 Kt 18 Kt 14 Kt 10 Kt 100% pure 75% pure 58% pure 42% pure Precious metals: gold-filled, sterling silver and vermeil (sterling silver cov- ered in a 10K gold or higher) Craft This is a copper-based wire that has a permanent color layer around it. This is generally a very soft wire. Niobium This is a lightweight, hypoal- lergenic wire that is very strong. Aluminum This is another super light- weight wire and is perfect for manipu- lating with your hands. Wire Gauge & Shapes Wire comes in many shapes. Four common shapes used in jewelry making are round, half round, square and twisted. Wire is measured by its gauge, which increases as the wire gets thinner. For example, a 22-gauge wire is much thin- ner than a 14-gauge wire. Hardness of Wire The hardness of wire is determined by its malleability or how easily it can be bent without breaking. There are three general levels of hardness. • Dead soft is super malleable and very easy to manipulate, sometimes too easy. • Half hard is most commonly used because of its level of malleability and sturdiness. • Full hard is very difficult to manipu- late. Heating or annealing can soften a wire’s hardness while hammering or work-hardening wire stiffens it. Findings Findings are the pieces that make jewelry possible. Usually metal, find- ings include crimp beads, clasps, pins and more! Crimps Usually found as tubes or round beads, crimps are essential for securing beading wire to a clasp. Calottes Used with crimps and in silk knotting, these clamshell-shaped find- ings cover a secured crimp or knot and provide a loop for jump or split rings. Metals Metals have been mined from the earth for centuries and melted, forged and soldered into jewelry and beads of all forms. In jewelry making, we most commonly use gold and silver precious metals and base metals like brass, cop- per and pewter. Plated metal beads start with a base metal and have a precious metal plated to their surface in thicknesses of .15mm to .25mm. Gold-filled beads are made by layer- ing a gold alloy with a base metal like brass, then forming it into shape. Karats are the measure of gold versus alloy. Sterling silver is a mix of silver and alloy containing 92.5 percent silver and 7 .5 percent alloy or copper. Silver-filled beads are a copper-alloy covered in a layer of sterling silver. Fine or pure silver is 99.9 percent silver. Wire Wire is metal that has been drawn through progressively smaller holes in thick metal plates to a certain shape, diameter and hardness. Today, wire is available in many different metals. 30 gauge 0.01 inch 0.25 mm 26 gauge 0.0159 inch 0.40 mm 24 gauge 0.02 inch 0.51 mm 22 gauge 0.025 inch 0.64 mm 18 gauge 0.04 inch 1.05 mm 14 gauge 0.064 inch 1 .63 mm Wire Gauges SimplyBeadsKitClub.com 5 Earrings Earring findings are posts, ear wires, hoops or clip-on compo- nents that attach the beadwork to your ear. Chandelier earring compo- nents are also classified under earring findings. Earnuts are metal or rubber pieces that slide on to the back of an earring to secure it on your ear. Here are some common earring findings: Chandeliers Clip-ons Earnuts Hook ear wires Hoops Lever-backs Bails Bails are used to display a bead or pendant whose hole runs from the front to the back, instead of side to side. Links Their name says it all. A link is a component with a loop or hole on both ends that is used to connect jew- elry elements together. Spacer Bars Invaluable when creat- ing multi-strand jewelry, spacer bars help keep your strands separated for a great look. Crimp Covers Like calottes, these sneaky findings cover crimp beads or knots but disguise them to look like a bead and do not provide a loop. Clasps These fasteners come in many different shapes. Anything that can hold two ends of a piece of jewelry together can be a clasp. Common clasps are spring rings, lobster-claws and toggles. Pins Head pins and eye pins are really the work horses of jewelry design, second only to beading wire. • Head pins, a straight wire with a flat head that inconspicuously holds beads in place, are used to create dangles by forming a simple loop above strung beads. • Eye pins, a straight wire with a simple loop on one end, are used to create links, which form a chain when com- bined. To form a link, string beads onto an eye pin and form a simple loop above the strung beads. Rings Jump rings and split rings are used to connect different jewelry components together. • Jump Rings Although they now come in many shapes, jump rings are usually round, 18-gauge wire rings with a cut in one side. This cut allows the two sides to be twisted away from each other, a jewelry compo- nent or two to be strung on the jump ring and its sides, then twisted back together, connecting the two com- ponents. You can find soldered jump rings for times you don’t want the ring to open. • Split Rings Think of a split ring like a jump ring that spirals around twice. You might know a split ring as a key ring. These rings don’t twist open like a jump ring, but still allow things to be connected by stringing them around its spiral. Caps Commonly referred to as bead caps, these pretty findings serve not only as decoration but as protection for beads. Some beads, like crystals— particularly bicones—can scratch the finish of delicate neighbors, like pearls. A bead cap on both sides of pearl protects its finish from its neigh- boring crystals. Tip: Sometimes small beads uploads/Geographie/ beading-guide.pdf

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