cutting GUIDE. Fiskars was founded in the small Finnish village of the same nam

cutting GUIDE. Fiskars was founded in the small Finnish village of the same name, when Queen Christina of Sweden granted Peter Thorwöste the privilege to manufacture cast iron and forged products. Today one of the Western world’s oldest companies, Fiskars has grown into a multinational Corporation, with products sold in more than 40 countries, spanning four continents. Fiskars intends to re-invent the overall gardening experience by using advanced engineering and materials to produce tools that act like an extension of the body, boost power output, enhance control and reduce strain. This ingenious simplicity has given birth to a range that comprises pruning shears, loppers, universal cutters, grass and hedge shears, shovels, rakes, reel mowers, axes, cultivating and snow tools. garden. perfected. Not all plants require cutting, so only grab the cutters when there is a reason to cut. Trim shrubs when they are too bushy or when the production of flowers or berries has decreased considerably. Cut off dry, dead or rough branches. Remember that cutting does not revive an ailing plant. A shoot that is gangly or too long can indicate an unsuitable habitat: too shady or sunny, too dry or wet. The soil may not have the right nutrients, or the lawn and other surrounding plants are using up all the nutrients. A shrub that has been planted too deeply will not start growing better after cutting. Anvil or bypass? The rule of thumb is that bypass cutters are especially suited for cutting fresh wood as the blade reaches the base of the branch. The anvil model reduces the final blow of the cutting motion so it’s ideal for cutting dry and hard wood. Pruning trees Many gardeners can be afraid of pruning trees. It is true that we have all been honing this skill for many years, quite often by trial and error, but there area several pieces of advice and principles that can help us right from the start. Before we start pruning, it is good to think everything through and to decide which plants, when and how we should prune. Also, stop and think about what you would want your garden to look like, what plants you have in it and what do you expect of your garden. Just like in school, it may not pay off just to slavishly copy what your neighbour does. cut at the right time We can remove the dry or dead parts of trees or shrubs at any time of the year. However, the removal of diseased or otherwise damaged branches needs to be left for the time which is most suitable for the plant. This time is usually the dormancy period of the plant. We can start pruning coniferous trees and coniferous hedges as early as February. However, we should avoid pruning trees if temperatures below 5 °C are forecasted, because a pruned tree or shrub can be damaged by cold and frost. We should start pruning deciduous trees, shrubs and climbing plants in early March and in April. We can also carry out thinning or maintenance cutting from the middle of summer until the end of August. Trees which tend to “bleed” too strongly in spring, such as cherry trees or other stone fruit trees, as well as walnut or birches, should be cut in the middle of summer when the annual shoots mature. For example, a cherry tree can be pruned even during harvest. Fiskars Universal Garden Cutter Universal Garden Cutters are designed to make pruning trees and vines a more stress- free experience. With smooth- cutting saws, the sharpest pruning blades and extremely light handles you can reach high into the branches easily. general principles of pruning First, we always remove the dead, damaged or diseased wood. At the same time, we cut off the weak offshoots or any offshoots that are growing in a disorderly manner. Then we examine the shape of the treetop and decide on which branches should be pruned or removed. If we do not intend to create special shapes such as cordons, we try to make sure that the pruning achieves a treetop shape that’s as natural as possible. Excessively radical pruning leads to rampant growth; conversely, sparser pruning limits growth. When trimming or pruning coniferous plants, we never remove the whole new offshoots, because no new buds will appear on an old branch. In the end, we would be left only with a clutter of brown twigs. The golden rule is never to remove more than one third of the green matter. It is always necessary to cut as accurately as possible in order not to damage the tree. We cut the offshoots just above a healthy bud, a pair of buds or an offshoot growing in a desired direction. We do not cut too far from the bud so that a stub does not remain, which might lead to further damage. However, we must also refrain from cutting too close in order to avoid harming the bud. what we want to achieve with pruning Shaping pruning is carried out on young trees in order to achieve the growth of a strong and balanced structure of the treetop. The simplest method is to remove the dead, damaged or infected parts and weak or crossing branches. With shaping pruning, we can significantly modify the future shape of the tree, for example, we can create an espalier or a cordon. The closer the desired shape is to the natural shape, such as, for example, with a dwarf tree, the less pruning required. In fully grown plants, the goal of what is referred to as maintenance pruning is to maintain the good state of health and shape of the tree as well as to ensure good yield from fruit trees. A fully developed and fruit-produ­ cing tree, shrub or plant is pruned in order to support its optimum growth and fruit production. The basic action is to cut off the undesired offshoots and branches, which are spoiling the framework of the treetop or do not bear fruit. Correct pruning keeps an airy, not overly dense treetop, in which the ripening fruit gets enough sun and in which the fruit can be properly harvested. In old trees, which do not grow any new offshoots, which reduces their productiveness, it is possible to carry out rejuvenation pruning. With this type of pruning, we try to support the growth of new offshoots and to let more light get into the treetop. Of course, first of all, we remove the diseased and dry branches from the tree. Then we cut out all the crossing and overly dense branches. We always strive to achieve a balanced treetop as the final result. It is better to spread these efforts over a period of two or three years. If a tree in a poor condition is pruned too drastically, this can weaken the tree even more or it can completely destroy the tree. Fiskars QuikFitTM Telescopic shaft Fiskars QuikFitTM Telescopic shaft with curved saw is a perfect combination, if you need to prune trees and cut thicker branches from high up. The shaft is made from lightweight aluminium and adjustable up to 4 metres. Saw is a pull saw with branch hook and curved blade, which makes sawing easy even it happens 6 metres high. cutting shrubs and vines Shrubs can, if necessary, be cut in spring before growth starts (March-April). Evergreens wake up earlier from winter dormancy and can therefore be cut in February. Shrubs can also be trimmed in midsummer when the early summer growth has slowed down. If a shrub blooms in early summer, you can first enjoy the bloom and cut it in July when the blossom has passed. If shrubs and vines that sap, such as the Amur maple and actinidia kolomikta, need cutting it should be done in July. Potted seedlings are usually well branched out and do not require cutting. Hedge seedlings that are usually rod seedlings need cutting to branch out. A shrub can be fully renewed by dividing the cutting over three years. In the first spring/summer a third of the shrub’s old branches are removed and new growth not touched. If there is new growth in the shrub the following spring a third of the old branches are removed again. In the third year the rest of the old branches are removed and the shrub has been fully renewed and will grow nicely. trimming If a shrub generates suckers sparingly it can be trimmed. Shrubs that can be trimmed include raspberries, currants, shrubby maples, forsythias, honeysuckles, shrubby roses that bloom with second year shoots, mountain ash, hydrangeas and lilacs. Some shrubs can be rejuvenated by cutting them down and trimming a little every year as they get older so that the blossom and growth remain beautiful. These types of shrubs include mock-oranges, cornaceaeses, shrubby cinquefoils and common lilac. If you are not sure whether a shrub can handle cutting, only trim it. cutting down If a shrub generates a uploads/Ingenierie_Lourd/ cutting-guide-eng.pdf

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