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N°1 www.inyourpocket.com Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Cagliari February - March 2012 “In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well- written series of guidebooks.” The New York Times 3 Contents February - March 2012 cagliari.inyourpocket.com E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S Foreword 4 Food - Nature - Colours - Tastes 5 Arriving 7 The Basics 8 History 10 Culture, Events & Sports 11 Where to stay 13 Restaurants 18 Cafés 23 Nightlife 25 What to see 28 Getting around 34 Contents Shopping 36 Lifestyle Directory 40 Maps & Index Street index 42 Transport maps 43,44-45 City map 46-47 City centre map 48-49 Index 50 Piazza Yenne © Comune di Cagliari Saint Remy Rampart © www.comune.cagliari.lt Cagliari In Your Pocket cagliari.inyourpocket.com 4 Foreword E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S Editorial Editor in Chief Maria Marongiu Contributors Edward Gregory- Jones, Cristina Orjendovici, Lorenzo Marsano Layout & Design Vaida Gudynaitė Cover photo © Comune di Cagliari Sales & Circulation Sales & Circulation Manager Lorenzo Marsano Special Thanks Antonina Gaspa, Peter Gregory-Jones, Marco Lissoni, Carlo Andrea Marsano In Loving Memory of Carlo Unnia Autorizzazione Tribunale di Cagliari n. 4 del 27/1/2012 Responsabile del trattamento dati (legge 675/96): Lorenzo Marsano Copyright notice Text and photos copyright PIYP s.r.o. 2000-2012. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers’ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors. Cagliari In Your Pocket Via Ugo Foscolo 11/6b 16121 Genoa (GE), Italy Tel. (+39) 010 844 38 29 Fax (+39) 010 844 38 30 italia@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN: 2240-9912 © IYP Italia S.r.l. con Socio unico Published six times per year in Genoa by IYP Italia S.r.l. con Socio unico Via San Vincenzo 2 - XI piano 16121 Genoa (GE), Italy Printed by Grafiche Ghiani S.r.l., Monastir (CA), Italy Maps Comune di Cagliari - Assessorato al Turismo, ARST S.p.A., CTM S.p.A. For the authors of this guidebook, starting up Cagliari In Your Pocket has been a demanding yet gratifying enterprise. With very little tourist literature available, compared to other more mainstream Mediterranean holiday destinations, all the information you will find in this first edition has been sought in first person; managers have been contacted; phone numbers double-checked and places visited personally. There was no other way to follow through on this project, especially given the editor’s ultimate goal: a clear, easy- to-use, comprehensive and up-to-date point of reference for visitors. It was also a good idea to get this editorial engine running in the winter, when everything is concentrated in the old town, giving us more time to look out for the best novelties around, especially as the summer months draw closer and the city changes its skin, like those desert snakes after weeks of lethargy in their pits. However, Cagliari is far from being dormant in winter. Especially at weekends, restaurants, cafés, pubs and clubs are at full steam, packed with locals pursuing either tradition, latest fashion, music, cultural stimuli or laid back entertainment. If you have just arrived in Cagliari or you are in the process of planning your trip, initially the focus of your attention should be on the old town and its four historical quarters, all of which are lively and pullulating, albeit in different ways, depending on whether you are panting your way up to Castello or snooping around in people’s homes through front doors in Villanova. But do give yourself the chance to get out of town, making the most of what Cagliari’s nature has to offer: Poetto, the Calamosca area, the Molentargius Saline Park are all within easy reach using public transport. It was a busy 2011 for In Your Pocket, with new guides published in Bulgaria (Veliko Turnovo), Netherlands (Tilburg, Utrecht, Amsterdam and Sittard-Geelen), in Austria (Vienna), in Croatia (Šibenik), in Swit- zerland (Zurich), Slovenia (Posavje) and in Belarus (Minsk); 2012 promises to deliver many more new Pockets, including our first guides in Italy. The number of cities we cover has now climbed past 75, and the number of In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching an amazing five million. To keep up to date, like In Your Pocket on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). You can also now follow our tips on Foursquare (foursquare.com/ inyourpocket). The World of In Your Pocket Czech Republic Poland Romania Serbia Bosnia Kosovo Albania Greece FYR Macedonia Bulgaria Montenegro Italy Croatia Slovenia Austria Switzerland Ukraine Belarus Lithuania Latvia Estonia Russia Germany Netherlands Northern Ireland Ireland February - March 2012 cagliari.inyourpocket.com 5 Food - Nature - Colours - Tastes The history and the archaeology, the environment, the sea and architectural beauty. The beach and marshland, the lagoon and the hills. The narrow streets in the old town, from Marina up to Castello, strolling through Vil- lanova and Stampace. The smells and tastes. Craft and art. They all tell us about the traditions but also the city’s desire for a future. It’s not easy to describe Cagliari in just a few lines, even for someone like me who was born and bred here. Be- cause Cagliari is a beautiful city, sunny and full of light. It’s the gateway to Sardinia in the heart of the Mediterranean Sea: thanks to its location, our city is a crossroads for sounds, colours and flavours. Multi-ethnic. Open and welcoming, because this is how we are in Cagliari. Welcoming, but also ready to face the challenges that the future poses. Cagliari is a lively, ever-changing city. Just like this guidebook: take it around with you, study the itineraries it suggests, visit the places, follow advice on hotels, restaurants, shops, workshops and venues, take notes of events, exhibitions and shows on our cultural agenda. So read it well and keep it in your pocket. And raise your eyes and noses from these pages: watch the colours and enjoy the smells in Cagliari. For how ever well this guidebook may be written - and In Your Pocket really is well written - it’s you and your memories, once back in your homes, that will be the best ambassadors for our city across the world. Welcome to Cagliari! Massimo Zedda Mayor A Word From Our Mayor City of light and wide skies; long lunches and longer siestas; of days on the beach, surfing and sailing. Then after all that sunlight and laughter what, as the song asks, ‘comes after?! Why!’ Cagliari’s kaleidoscopic nightlife. This is an exciting place to live, an awesome one to visit. A generation ago hardly anyone came to Cagliari unless they had to. Now they’re queuing up - cruise liners jostle each other to be let into port; jumbo jets stacked up across the arc of blue above the gulf of Angels: the railway and bus stations pullulate; taxi drivers need to change their cars every two months. Well; perhaps not quite, at least not yet. For though hoteliers and other beneficiaries of the tourist trade seem, like farmers, to enjoy being pessimistic, the numbers of visitors edge up year by year. At the same time, Cagliari’s facilities and services are able to more than match this growing demand. While the ‘underlying causes’ for this increased influx are doubtless myriad and mysterious (underlying causes invari- ably are), the essential answer is perfectly straightforward. After its long sleep (Rome’s patricians and rich merchants loved wintering in Sardinia), Cagliari has awoken to its potential as a holiday destination, rather than merely a port of call. What of course hasn’t - couldn’t have! - changed are Cagliari’s basic characteristics: its climate, geographical position and population. Reflected off the sparkling (and clean) waters of the town beach, Poetto, or sliding with the passing hours over the vistas of stone and terracotta of the old town, southern Sardinian sunlight caresses land and sea alike. Seldom too hot to be unbearable, seldom absent long enough to reach for a second scarf. The same sunlight magically enhances and nuances colour. Stuccoed façades deep orange at breakfast time fade at noon to pale beige then glow again, now though like a ripe apricot, while the shadows lengthen as the sun dips behind the mountains of Capoterra across the bay. Roofscapes too form, dissolve, re-form: pink to tawny, to parched eggshell grey, to plum red, to burnt umber. Not a city of parks or fountains - not, as I once fondly imagined, a sort uploads/Geographie/ cagliari-guide 1 .pdf