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Feeling safe on the highest point in Austria 3.798 m Großglockner Information f

Feeling safe on the highest point in Austria 3.798 m Großglockner Information for mountain hikers on local mountain guides, mountain rescue, tourism associations, the Hohe Tauern National Park and the Austrian Alpine Association The Grossglockner Summit ascents Dangers Routes to the top from Heiligenblut Glockner north side „Ascent of the Grossglockner from Erzherzog-Johann Hut” 360m climbing height, fxed securing points in places, class II degree of difculty, up to 40 degrees on “Glocknerleitl”, 1.5 to 2.5 hours (even on the easiest descent). From Erzherzog-Johann Hut over Firnrücken (“Firn Ridge”) and the steep, 40 degrees ice overhang of “Glocknerleitl” up to the point where the rocks begin. Over the ridge to the Kleinglockner, descent into the Glockner Gap and over steep paving (class II degree of difculty) up to the summit cross. Bolts with rings and iron sticks are provided as securing option all over the rocky area. „Stüdlgrat“ (south-west ridge), 550m climbing height from entrance, partly fxed securing points, class II and III and on one section class IV degree of difculty, 3.5 hours (1,000m climbing height from Stüdl Hut, 5 hours). From Stüdl Hut to Teischnitzkees, travelling west under Luisen Ridge to Luisen Gap and further west past the Grat (“ridge”) and directly to the entrance of Stüdl Ridge. Climing is usually directly on the ridge - danger of rock falls on the west side. The really difcult climbing only begins from the second half of the ridge (Breakfast Square). Rock falls As a result of climate change (e.g. melting of permafrost, glacier loss), the risk of rock falls is increasing. Rock falls may also come of the mountainsides and onto the adjacent glacier. Late spring, or autumn, constitute the best times for trips onto the ice. Thunderstorms /sudden falls in temperature Such events are related to ice foods, snowfall and poor visibility. The degree of difculty on rocky ascents suddenly increases. Orientation becomes almost impossible in “white out” on glaciers in Glocknerleitl. Avalanches Avalanches may occur at any time of the year, especially after snowfall and subsequent wind or warming. Access to Pasterze is made very dangerous by avalanches in winter. Glacier crevices Ropes should be used on glaciers, as a crevice fall may only be controlled through ropes and the correct roping and securing techniques. Subjective dangers - man Advances in equipment, alpine training and technical resources have been noticeable in recent years. As a result, understanding of nature, instinct and therefore the ability to take the right decisions with regard to the weather and terrain have reduced. The size of the Grossglockner, the large number of ropes on normal ascents and long, exposed ridge ascents require rapid progress and climbing and securing, using short distances between ropes. Insufcient skills This has also increasingly become an issue by virtue of exposure and narrow locations in the summit area; a lot of people struggle on the way up and down “Glocknerleitl” , over the narrow “Glockner Gap” and back; lack of expertise in rope usage obstructs groups pressing on from behind, encouraging them to attempt risky overtaking manoeuvres. Inadequate equipment Mountain hikers not using ropes, or mountain hikers wanting to overcome the Grossglockner without appropriate use of crampons put themselves and other mountain hikers at risk. Planning trips Weather report The “Alpine Association weather service” ofers a recorded announcement and personal advice on the telephone. Local mountain guides and hut landlords are also happy to provide information on weather and conditions on the mountain. Personal advice: +43/(0)512/291600 (Mon-Sat 13.00-18.00) Recorded service in Austria - Overall alpine weather: 0900 91156680 - Eastern Alps: 0900 91156682 - Regional alpine weather: 0900 91156681 Recorded service in Germany - alpine weather report: 0190116011 Equipment (normal path) • 1x rucksack 30-40l • weatherproof high-alpine mountain sport clothing, including jacket, top-quality gloves, hat, gaiters • instep crampon mountain boots (range of use C/D) • sunglasses, lip protection, sun protection cream and cover • sleeping bag for use in huts, means of washing (smallest format) • frst-aid equipment, bivouac sack, forehead lamp • combination-belt or alpine climbing harness • mountain ropes (simple rope/10mm/40m) • crampons with anti-spike plate, 1x ice pick, 2x ice screws • 2x cords (3m and 5m), 2x strap loops (120cm) • 5x carabiners, 3 of which have screw retention, safety appliance • Alpine Association map “Glocknergruppe” no. 40 in addition for access to Stüdl Ridge: • rock fall helmet, 2x express sets Knowledge & skills • surefootedness, head for heights, crampon technique • physical ftness, condition for 8 hours • acclimatisation • roping technique, techniques for crevice rescue* • securing technique on glaciers and ridges* • knowledge of orientation* in addition for access to Stüdl ridge inspection: • climbing technique - class III to IV degree of difculty • securing and abseiling technique* * not required if led by a mountain guide The highest mountain in Austria acts as a magnet for domestic and international mountain hikers. Starting with the most common ascents via Salm Hut and Stüdl Hut, and continuing over Stüdlgrat (“Stüdl Ridge”) and extreme icy ascents (such as Palavicinirinne [“Palavicini Gorge”]), it ofers tempting goals to all mountain hikers. The Grossglockner is repeatedly underestimated by mountain hikers. Even the supposedly simplest of ascents from Salm Hut or Stüdl Hut up to Erzherzog-Johann Hut and the Grossglockner demand that mountain hikers have alpine experience and the correct methods for roping and securing techniques. In the last few years the Grossglockner has no longer been climbed only in summer, but has increasingly become a winter target for people on skiing trips and wintertime mountain hikers. Furthermore, in the last few years, it has become possible to regularly encounter mountain hikers with tents, especially on Ködnitzkees, although camping is generally prohibited in the Hohe Tauern National Park. This trend has resulted in an increasing number of serious accidents involving difcult mountain rescue operations. Mountain hikers and skiers should therefore be provided with important information on preventative safety measures. A large-scale census carried out by the Austrian Alpine Association allows us to make two fundamental statements: 1. The Grossglockner does get full, but only on certain days, at certain times and in certain locations. 2. A lot of mountain hikers underestimate this mountain. Descent is from the Kleinglockner in the direction of Erzherzog-Johann Hut. Route to the top from Salm Hut over Hohenwartscharte (“Hohenwart Gap”) From Heiligenblut, through Leitertal (“Leiter Valley”) (on Fürstbischof Salm path) to Salm Hut (4 to 5 hours) or on Mautstrasse to Glocknerhaus and over Stocker Gap to Salm Hut (2,638m; 3 hours); an alternative route leads from Lucknerhaus to Glorer Hut in 2 hours and another hour to Salm Hut; over Hohenwartkees and the western side of the rocks (class I degree of difculty, protected) into Hohenwart Gap. Continue over Salm Field to Erzherzog-Johann Hut (3 to 3.5 hours). Beware: glacier visits on all routes; ropes should defnitely be used. Crampons required. Beware: No small route on the Grossglockner is easy, and not the climb over the Salm Hut! Stüdl Ridge is not a climbing ascent. There are around 30 routes - including variations leading up to the Grossglockner. More than 90% of all ascents in the summer months are made from Salm Hut and Stüdl Hut over the normal path to Erzherzog-Johann Hut and then over Glocknerleitl to the summit. The ascent from Stüdl Hut over Stüdl Ridge, leading directly onto the Grossglockner, is also very popular. Routes to the top from Kals Glockner south side The main routes lead to the top from the “mountain climbing villages” of Heiligenblut and Kals a. G. to Erzherzog-Johann Hut (3,454m) at Adlersruhe. Any ascent of the Grossglockner is recommended as a two-day trip. Drive a car or take the bus from Kals a. G. (1,325m) via Kals Glocknerstrasse to Lucknerhaus (1,920m); and then via Luckner Hut (2,241 m) to Stüdl Hut (2,802m; 3 hours). From Stüdl Hut take AV path no. 712 to the cairn at the beginning of the Ködnitzkees. Cross the Ködnitzkees and over a protected ridge to Erzherzog-Johann Hut (3,454m) to Adlersruhe. An alternative route takes us from Lucknerhaus to Luckner Hut and, after continuing to walk for 10 minutes, we arrive at a fork. We then turn right onto path no. 712A, to Mürztal Track. Take this route, protected in parts, up to Erzherzog-Johann Hut (4.5 hours). From Heiligenblut, go along Mautstrasse to Franz-Josefs- Höhe (“Franz-Josefs Summit”); over the Pasterze glacier path (glacier track), down to Pasterze; after crossing the glacier, a steep path leads up to “Frühstücksplatz” (“Breakfast Square” [2,793 m]); continue over Hofmannskees, which has plenty of crevices, to Salmkamp (“Salm Field”) and to Erzherzog-Johann Hut at Adlersruhe (5 hours). An alternative route from “Breakfast Square” is via Glocknerkar Field (= “Meletzkigrad”; class II degree of difculty). Luisen Ridge GROSSGLOCKNER GROSSGLOCKNER GROSSGLOCKNER Ködnitzkees Hofmannskees Breakfast Square Salm Hut Meletzkigrat Mürztal Track Erzherzog- Johann-Hut Erzherzog- Johann-Hut Erzherzog- Johann-Hut Sicher auf das Dach Österreichs Important information at a glance National Park and Alpine Association You can’t learn to hike in the mountains from one uploads/Ingenierie_Lourd/ glocknerroutes.pdf