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Army Mountain Warfare School Ethan Allen Firing Range Jericho, VT 05465-9796 Mi

Army Mountain Warfare School Ethan Allen Firing Range Jericho, VT 05465-9796 Military Mountaineer Course Knot Guide December 2010 2 2 - Basic Knot Tying 071E9002 INTRODUCTION: There are many knots used in mountaineering. While some exotic knots show, a great deal of skill using such knots does not offset the safety margin gained when everyone is familiar with a simpler system. Media: Small Group Instruction (SGI) a. Basic Knot Considerations. (1) Knot. A knot is a temporary condition in the rope. Knots have the ability to untie themselves over a period of time. A permanent knot would be desirable, but no such knot exists. All knots must be repeatedly checked and often re-tied. (2) Adverse Conditions. Often there is a need to tie a knot under adverse circumstances. You must know which knot is best for the purpose intended and how to tie the knot well. Repeated practice is recommended. (3) Selection. Strength should not be the sole basis of knot selection. Ease of tying, untying after loading, chances of working loose, and allowance for quick inspection are all factors. (4) Strength of Knots for Single Kernmantle Rope. No Knot: 100% Overhand: 60% to 65% Clove Hitch: 60%to 65% Bowline: 70% to 75% Water Knot: 60% to 70% Two Half Hitches: 60% to 70% Figure Eight: 75% to 80% b. Terms used in rope work. (1) Bight: A bend in the rope in which the rope does not cross itself. (2) Double Bight: A bend in a doubled rope in which the ropes do not cross themselves. (3) Loop: A bend in the rope in which the rope crosses itself. (a) Overhand Loop: The running end over the standing end. (b) Underhand Loop: The running end under the standing end (4) Half Hitch: A loop that runs around an object to lock or secure itself. (5) Girth Hitch: A bight around an object securing the standing ends. (6) Running End: Loose or working end of the rope. (7) Standing End: Stationary or non-working end of the rope. (8) Turn: A wrap of the rope around an object, providing 360-degree contact (9) Round Turn: A wrap of the rope around an object 1 1/2 times. You can use it around small diameter trees to prevent the rope from sliding up from the base. (10) Pigtail: The pigtail is the portion of the running end after the safety knot and the end of the rope. All pigtails will be a minimum of 4 inches long. 3 Figure 1 Over Hand Loop Figure 2 Under Hand Loop Figure 3 Half Hitch Figure 4 Running and Standing Ends Note: For standardization and ease of inspection, always tie right to left for horizontal anchors or top to bottom for vertical anchors. a. KNOTS (1) OVERHAND KNOT. (a) Purpose: To be used as a safety knot. (b) Tying the Knot:  Take the running end of the rope and form a loop.  Place the running end through the loop.  Dress the overhand knot down to the knot that it is securing. (c) Checkpoints:  A locking bar that secures the running end to the standing end.  Minimum 4-inch pigtail Figure 7 Overhand 4 (2) GIRTH HITCH. (a) Purpose: To attach a piece of webbing or cord to an anchor or into a harness. (b) Tying the knot:  Take a pre-tied piece of tubular webbing and place a bight over the anchor or harness. The joining knot should be offset.  Pass the knotted side of webbing through the bight.  Dress the wraps and locking bar down ensuring the joining knot is offset and out of the girth hitch. (c) Checkpoints  Two turns around the object with a perpendicular locking bar.  The joining knot is offset and out of the turns. Figure 8 Girth Hitch (3) SQUARE KNOT. (a) Purpose: To join the ends of two ropes of equal diameter when they are under tension. (b) Tying the Knot:  Holding one running end in each hand, place the running end in your right hand over the one in your left hand.  Pull it under and then back over the top of the rope in your left hand.  Place the running end in your left hand over the one in your right hand and repeat as in Step 2.  Dress the knot down and safety it with an overhand knot on each side of the square knot. (c) Checkpoints:  Two interlocking bights.  The running ends are on opposite ends of the knot and on the same side of the standing ends.  Minimum 4-inch pigtails after the overhand safety. 5 Figure 8 Square Knot 6 (4) FIGURE EIGHT BEND. (a) Purpose: To join the ends of two ropes up to a 5-mm diameter difference. (b) Tying the Knot:  Grasp the top of a 2-foot bight.  With the other hand grasp, the running end (short end) and make a 360-degree turn around the standing end.  Place the running end through the loop you have just formed creating an in-line figure eight.  Route the running end of the other rope back through the figure eight starting from the original rope's running end. Trace the original knot to the standing end.  Remove all twists and crossovers. Dress the knot down. (c) Checkpoints:  Two ropes running side by side in the shape of a figure eight.  The running ends are on opposite ends of the knot and on opposite sides of the standing ends.  Minimum 4-inch pigtails. Figure 9 Figure Eight Bend 7 (5) WATER KNOT. (a) Purpose: To join the ends of tubular webbing. (b) Tying the Knot:  Tie an overhand knot in one end of the webbing.  Route the other end of the webbing back through the overhand knot. Follow the course of the original overhand knot.  Ensure all the webbing is laying flat within the knot.  Dress the knot down. (c) Checkpoints:  Two pieces of webbing running side by side in the shape of an overhand.  The running ends are on opposite ends of the knot and on the same side of the standing ends.  There are no twists in the webbing.  Minimum 4-inch pigtails. Figure 10 Water Knot 8 (5) BOWLINE. (a) Purpose: To anchor the end of a rope. (b) Tying the Knot:  Bring the running end of the rope around the anchor, from right to left, top to bottom.  With your right thumb facing toward you, form a loop in the standing part by turning your wrist clockwise. Lay the loop to the right.  Reach down through the loop with your right hand. Pull up a bight from the standing part of the rope. Ensure the standing part of the bight is facing toward you.  Place the running end of the rope (on your left) through the bight from left to right and bring it back on itself. Hold the running end loosely and dress the knot down by pulling on the standing end.  Dress the knot down and safety the bowline with an overhand knot. (c) Checkpoints:  A bight around the standing end, held in place by a loop.  The running end of the bight is on the inside of the fixed loop.  Minimum 4-inch pigtail after the overhand safety. 1 3 8 6 4 2 7 5 9 (7)TRIPLE BOWLINE. (a) Purpose: To anchor a bight of rope. (b) Tying the Knot:  Form a bight. Bring the running end of the rope around the anchor, from right to left top to bottom.  With your right thumb facing toward you, form a doubled loop in the standing part by turning your wrist clockwise. Lay the loops to the right.  With your right hand, reach down through the loops and pull up a doubled bight from the standing parts of the rope. Ensure that the standing parts are facing toward you.  Place the running end (bight) of the rope (on your left) through the doubled bight from left to right and bring it back on itself. Hold the running end loosely and dress the knot down by pulling on the standing ends.  Safety it off with a doubled overhand knot. (c) Checkpoints:  Two bights around the two standing ends, held in place by two loops.  The running end of the double bight is on the inside of the fixed loops.  Minimum 4-inch pigtail after the overhand safety. Figure 29 Triple Bowline 10 (8) CLOVE HITCH: End of rope (EOR). (a) Purpose: To anchor the end of the rope under tension. (b) Tying the Knot:  Make a turn around the anchor, left to right.  Bring the rope over the standing part and down continuing around the anchor forming a diagonal locking bar.  Continue wrapping around the anchor.  Pass the running end under the locking bar just formed.  uploads/Litterature/ knot-guide.pdf