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MOZAMBIQUE Vital tips for visitors Best places to stay, eat and shop Star-rated

MOZAMBIQUE Vital tips for visitors Best places to stay, eat and shop Star-rated top attractions Detailed regional profiles Essential area and transport maps Best tours and excursions 6TH Ed TRAVEL GUIDE FREE MAP PDF FOR YOUR PHONE 1. Introducing Mozambique 5 The Land 6 History in Brief 11 Government and Economy 17 The People 23 2. Maputo 31 Chief Maputa’s Capital 32 Historical and Cultural Walks 34 Around Maputo 40 3. The Lagoon Coast 45 Inhaca Island 46 Maputaland 47 Ponta do Ouro 49 Bilene Lagoon 52 Xai-Xai 53 The Lakes 55 4. Inhambane and Surrounds 59 Inhambane Bay 60 Tofo Village and Barra Beach 66 Barra Peninsula and Cape Inhambane 66 Maxixe and Surrounds 69 5. Bazaruto Archipelago and Adjacent Mainland 77 Mainland Towns 78 The Islands 80 En Route to Beira 83 6. Central Mozambique 89 Beira 90 Gorongosa National Park 99 Chimanimani Transfrontier Reserve 100 Songo and Lake Cahora Bassa 101 Tete Town 103 7. North of the Zambezi 107 Quelimane 109 The Zambezi Delta 111 Nampula 111 Ilha de Moçambique 113 Pemba 116 Around Pemba 118 Travel Tips 122 Index 127 CONTENTS 89 B eira (capital of Sofala province), Chimoio (capital of Manica province) and Tete (capital of Tete) are the largest towns in Mozambique’s central and western region. All three are historically and architecturally fas- cinating, owing their existence to the need for trading outlets: Chimoio is an important farming centre, Tete has become a coal mining boom town and is an inland Zambezi River port, and Beira a busy ocean harbour at the mouth of the Púngoè and Búzi rivers. Tete’s two squat sandstone stockades reveal its former ‘frontier town’ status, while dhows, handcrafted nearby, still ply Beira’s ultramodern docks. In this region the Mozambican Plain narrows, giving way to the Mozambican Plateau and the Chimanimani, Gorongosa and Bvumba mountain ranges. Mangrove swamps still occur sporadically along the coast, but corals are restricted by the shallows produced by a widening continental shelf, as well as the influence of silt deposited at the mouths of the Búzi, Púngoè and Zambezi rivers. Extensive mangrove swamps occur between Beira and Nova Mambone, and around Quelimane. For birders this habitat is significant – it harbours rare species like the palmnut vulture and elusive mangrove kingfisher, found in greater numbers here than anywhere else on earth. Gorongosa National Park (www.gorongosa.net) has reached an advanced stage of restoration. Chitengo Lodge has been upgraded and is now managed by the Girassol group, while Explore Gorongosa offer guided walking safaris from a remote tented camp. The Carr Foundation is 6. Central Mozambique ◁Opposite: These ‘mwade’ dugouts, near Magoé, are still the main form of transport on Lake Cahora Bassa. INDIAN OCEAN MADAGASCAR ZIMBABWE ZAMBIA TANZANIA SOUTH AFRICA MALAWI M O Z A M B I Q U E MAPUTO Beira Mozambique Pemba Nampula Lichinga Tete Quelimane Inhambane ★★★ Parque Nacional do Gorongosa (Gorongosa National Park): undergoing a transformation beyond its former glory. ★★★ Rio Savane: a secluded wilderness beach resort 40km (25 miles) north of Beira. ★★★ Praça do Município: enjoy an espresso here. ★★★ Chimanimani Reserve: Monte Binga, forest elephants. ★★ Macúti Beach: fascinating shipwreck and lighthouse. ★★ Art Deco: CFM Estação, Hotel Estoril, Cinema 3 de Fevereiro, Hotel Grande, etc. DON’T MISS CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE 90 reintroducing the once-vast herds of elephant, buffalo and other wildlife and Gorongosa Mountain has been incorp- orated into the national park. The romance of raw Africa retains a tenuous grip in this region. BEIRA Mozambique’s third largest city, Beira is a fascinating but neglected port city situated at the mouth of the Púngoè River about halfway up the country’s coast. Beira’s origins lie in the historic settlement of Sofala which is a short dhow trip down the coast. Sofala was an Arab trading outpost for hundreds of years, where gold, ivory and slaves were exchanged for cloth and dyes, beads and spices. About 500 years later, Portuguese nav- igators, including Vasco da Gama, sailed into the estuary formed by the Rio Púngoè, to see if there was any truth in the story that gold was to be found in Sofala. It was not until 1881, when the European powers accelerated their colonial expansion into Africa, that the site was considered important enough for the Portuguese to Pún go è R iv e r Military Zone (No entry) Golf Course H H H H H H H H H EMBAIXADOR SAVOY DOM CARLOS (DERELICT) MIRAMAR GRANDE (DERELICT) SUN, SAND AND BEACH GUESTHOUSE JARDIM DAS VELAS VIP INN INDICO Railway Station Docks Ship Graveyard Mercado Municipal Catedral de Nossa Senhora de Rosário Light- house Macúti Beach Macúti Shipwreck Clube Nautico Restaurant Miramar Centro Hípico Restaurant International Airport T'Shungamoyo Market Casa dos Bicos Mananga Small Boat Harbour Casa Infante Sagres Casa Portugal Bique's Restaurant Shoprite Supermarket Bus Station Complexo Monte Verde Nightclub Art Deco Building Art Deco Building Estoril Art Deco Building Av. Daniel N apa tima Av. Eduardo Mondlane Ru a M a j o r Serpa Pinto Av. Eduardo Mondlane Av. Armanda Tivane Avenida 24 de Julho Av. M at eu s Sa n s ã o M uthemba Avenida das FPLM Avenida Jaime Sigaúque Avenida Mártires da Revolução Avenida Jaime Sigaúque Av. de Nampula Estrada Manga Estrada Acordas de Lusaka Rua General Viera Av. Poder Popular Estra da Carlos Per eira Macúti Palmeiras Munhava Maquinio Práça da India N 0 0 500 m 500 yd Beira Central Mozambique is hot and humid along the coast and hot and dry in the interior. Tete City clings to the banks at the bottom of the Zambezi’s heat-trapping valley. Average summer temperatures in Tete rarely drop below 30°C (86°F), while rainfall ranges from 150mm (6in) in January and February, to a completely dry May to June. Beira’s loca- tion on the coast, with cooling sea breezes and moisture- saturated air, gives it a slightly cooler but somewhat wetter climate than Tete. Beira is warmest from October to March, and experiences rain throughout the year, with December to March being the wettest months. CLIMATE BEIRA 91 establish a military garrison. Coincidentally, the Portu- guese crown prince Dom Luis Filipe, who was born at roughly the same time, was given the title Prince of Beira. The new settlement was named in his honour. Then the British, desperately seeking a sea outlet for landlocked southern Rhodesia, cast their eyes upon Beira. The British ‘Chartered Company’ troops clashed with Portuguese soldiers on a number of occasions in this area, while at the same time Portuguese traders began to explore Lake Malawi. Hostilities were finally ended with the signing of the Anglo-Portuguese Treaty of 1891, which, at last, defined the political boundaries of modern Mozambique and her neighbours. During this period, the town of Beira was nothing but a stinking, fever-ridden mangrove estuary where malaria and dysentery ruled. Most of the early residents braved disease in search of their fortune during the frantic ‘Manica gold rush’. Governor General Enes is recorded as saying this of the new arrivals: ‘Ten or twelve pounds a month was paid in order to live, baked by slow heat between sheets of galvanized iron … a visitor to the taverns of Beira, could hear veritable concerts of Below: The busy harbour 0of Beira is port of call for a variety of vessels. Since most buildings around the Praça do Município date from the colonial era, visitors may feel as though they were in the south of Portugal. During the day, the municipal square with its large central water feature, and municipal offices, which have a marble mural of the old Sofala fort in the hallway, are the social focal point for Beira’s more affluent residents. Surrounded by coffee shops with tables under the trees on the pave- ment, the praça’s ambience is more Iberian than African. PRAÇA DO MUNICIPIO CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE 92 curses and blasphemies from the disillusioned, calling down fire from Heaven upon those who had deceived them with false hopes of wealth.’ The first impression on arriving in the bairro Maquinino on the city’s outskirts may not be very favourable, but once you get over it, Beira holds hidden rewards for the inquisitive visitor. Beira is drab, dirty and chaotic, but it is also bewitching. Although the city is a lot smaller than Maputo, it was strategically far more important than the national capital during the civil war period (1977–92) due to its central location. Beira’s buildings display a mixture of colonial excess, bland postwar American and constrained socialist func- tionality in addition to the tin, cardboard and reed shelters of rampant unplanned urbanization. The imposing Art Deco Railway Station overlooks Praça dos Trabalhadores, where the parking space is once more experiencing demand. Passenger trains to Moatize, Marromeu and Zimbabwe were re-introduced during 2012. The oddly grandiose station has a cavernous entrance hall, high arched ceiling and ornamental fish- pond. Overlooking this echoing, empty space is a clean and cool restaurant with an interesting menu and wine list. A walk along the beachfront reveals what uploads/Geographie/ globetrotter-travel-guide-mozambique.pdf