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Dressed in history retro styles and the construction of authenticity in youth culture

Fashion Theory The Journal of Dress Body and Culture ISSN - X Print - Online Journal homepage https www tandfonline com loi r ?t Dressed in History Retro Styles and the Construction of Authenticity in Youth Culture Heike Jen? To cite this article Heike Jen? Dressed in History Retro Styles and the Construction of Authenticity in Youth Culture Fashion Theory - DOI To link to this article https doi org Published online May Submit your article to this journal Article views View related articles Citing articles View citing articles Full Terms Conditions of access and use can be found at https www tandfonline com action journalInformation journalCode r ?t CDressed in History Fashion Theory Volume Issue pp ?? Reprints available directly from the Publishers Photocopying permitted by licence only ? Berg Heike Jen? Heike Jen? is a PhD candidate in the interdisciplinary research project ??Uniforms in Motion The Process of Uniformity in Body and Dress ? at the Institute of Cultural History of Textiles at Dortmund University Germany Her thesis focuses on retro styles and consumption in the contemporary Sixties scene Dressed in History Retro Styles and the Construction of Authenticity in Youth Culture Although the concept of authenticity has been challenged as a useful explanatory tool in cultural analysis it is clear that a tag of authenticity is a powerful force in selling goods Not only does authenticity refer to new and original objects and themes but also to the re-creation or revival of objects and motifs from the past Indeed Mark Jones has argued that the concern for authenticity has grown with the passion for revivalism Jones This phenomenon is especially noticeable in the desire for authenticity in fashion But what is the link between authenticity and the reproduction and appropriation of former styles And what are the connotations of authenticity in the context of body and dress C Heike Jen? Based on ethnographic research among members of the Sixties scene in Germany this article investigates the dress practices involved in the construction of an authentic retro style The key question posed is in what ways are body and dress charged with the meaning of authenticity ??and how does authenticity in the world of objects relate to the subject This analysis of the Sixties scene and of the commercialization of authenticity among the brands Retrofame and adidas will show that authenticity is neither an immanent feature of objects nor of identity but a matter of negotiation of the cultural actors Authenticity is especially important to young people and is used as a tool in constructing identities through consumer behavior The authenticity of consumer articles and brands is guaranteed through certi ?cates like ??genuine article ? or ??authentic style ? printed on the labels of clothing such as jeans and trainers One company that actively promotes authenticity in its product lines is the German sportswear brand adidas The company has realized a global store concept selling remakes of adidas originals that are particularly targeted at the young knowledgeable consumer