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Burgundy wine guide Burgundy Wine Guide Although we were in fact enduring the last few days of winter it already felt like spring and indeed it had done so for several weeks Everywhere I looked there was new life lambs bounded through the ?elds and spring

Burgundy Wine Guide Although we were in fact enduring the last few days of winter it already felt like spring and indeed it had done so for several weeks Everywhere I looked there was new life lambs bounded through the ?elds and spring bulbs were erupting into sometimes dramatic explosions of colour Driving out of Chablis towards the small stretch of grand cru vineyards that runs to the north of the village I could see workers in the ?elds preparing for the vines to join in this annual festival of birth and rebirth Anticipating that the vines would soon be throwing out new buds and then tender young leaves and very aware of the continued risk of nocturnal frost they were occupied placing out the oil burners that would if required be lit to protect the tender leaves from freezing over the coming weeks Despite this emergence of new life of anticipation of looking forward to the vintage and year ahead I was for a moment in a re ective mood The month was March the year and I quickly calculated that meant more than a decade had passed since I had last visited Chablis and even then I had only paused here for a few days And yet it all looked so perfectly familiar the long drive through the wide open countryside between the Côte d'Or and this most northerly outpost of Burgundy seemed like a route I might have driven just yesterday The town with its restaurants where I once dined washing down my meals with premier cru Chablis from a variety of domaines looked unchanged And there o ? to the right was the campsite where I stayed with the little canals alongside which I used to walk and the locks in which I once swam always with that irrational and yet very human fear of ??what lies beneath ? To let more than ten years pass without returning to this what is surely the world ? s best known wine-town and some would argue the world ? s greatest white wine appellation was remiss of me Chablis has without doubt been the one piece of the Burgundy jigsaw that I have examined most closely over the years right back to those restaurant bottles in Chablis itself and to the copious quantities of Premier Cru Côte de Léchet I have to confess I forget the producer and Grand Cru Les Grenouilles from La Chablisienne the town ? s leading co-operative I drank as I was exploring wine for the very ?rst time as a student Over the years my understanding has deepened and has extended to the Côte d'Or the golden slope of vineyards some way to the southeast of Chablis running from Santenay up to Marsannay taking in all the famous names of Burgundy - Pommard Volnay Gevrey-Chambertin Chambolle-Musigny and so on - along the way There is also the Côte Chalonnaise further south again another stop-o ? on my ?rst ever journey through the region