SEPTEMBER 2020 HAWAII BEVERAGE GUIDE VOLUME 72, NO. 02 BEVERAGE GUIDE 10 RISING
SEPTEMBER 2020 HAWAII BEVERAGE GUIDE VOLUME 72, NO. 02 BEVERAGE GUIDE 10 RISING STARS PAVING NEW PATHS IN WINE, SPIRITS, BEER, AND EDUCATION DRINKS INNOVATORS TO WATCH BLACK SPECIAL SECTIO N BACK TO WORK GUIDE SEPTEMBER 2020 PUBLISHED MONTHLY HAWAIIBEVGUIDE.COM PHONE (808) 591-0049 HAWAIIBEVGUIDE.COM SEPTEMBER 2020 HAWAII BEVERAGE GUIDE 1 POSTMASTER: Please send address changes to HAWAII BEVERAGE GUIDE, P.O. Box 853, Honolulu, HI 96808 Hawaii Beverage Guide is an independent monthly trade publication devoted to the beer, wine and liquor industry in the entire state of Hawaii. The views expressed in this publication other than our own editorial comment do not necessarily express the opinion of the publisher. Because of the confidential nature of the matter contained herein, Hawaii Beverage Guide is restricted to members of the industry. Subscriptions are accepted on this basis only. Nothing may be reprinted or reproduced in whole or in part without written permission from the publisher. Published monthly by Service Publications, Inc., dba Hawaii Beverage Guide. Prices are $60.00 + tax per year; $10.00 + tax per single issue, airmail extra. Periodicals postage paid at Honolulu, Hawaii. Contents copyrighted 2020 by Service Publications, Inc. Published monthly by: Service Publications, Inc. (USPS 018-010) 1311 Kapiolani Blvd. #401 Honolulu, HI 96814 PHONE: (808) 591-0049 FAX: 1 (808) 356-1931 TOOL OF THE TRADE FOR HAWAII’S BEVERAGE INDUSTRY SERVING ALL ISLANDS IN THE 50TH STATE SINCE 1949! www.hawaiibevguide.com National Coverage, Local Advantage The Beverage Network Publications are serviced by Beverage Media Group, Inc. 152 Madison Avenue, Suite 600 New York, NY 10016 tel: 212.571.3232 • fax: 212.571.4443 www.bevnetwork.com Volume 72 I Issue No. 03 FEATURES SEPTEMBER 2020 SUBSCRIBE ONLINE! at our web site: hawaiibevguide.com CAN WE HELP YOU? To subscribe, or receive help with an existing subscription or change your address, please call us: Phone: (808) 591-0049 Fax Number: (808) 356-1931 e-mail: publisher@hawaiibevguide.com YOUR SUBSCRIPTIONS: PRODUCT LISTINGS A-12 Product Listings Section A-62 Brand Index A-91 Industry Directory Publisher: Editor: Business Consultant: Consultant: Christopher Teves Brent Nakano Crystal Arnold Campbell Mansfield A BITTER SWEET SYMPHONY OF FLAVOR Page 4 A bar is not a bar if there are no bitters. Aeromatic bitters and potable bitters make up this category of popular and diverse catagory of cocktail ingredients. ZINFANDEL Page 4 Americans like choices and the Zinfandel grape provides itself with many options. Stylistically, beyond table wine, Zinfandel can range from being fortified and heavy as found in a Zinfandel Port to light and sweet like a White Zinfandel SAUVIGNON BLANC Page 10 Suvignon Blanc is a pure expression of the grape and its terroir. Unlike other grape varietals which are fermented in oak barrels to impart flavor, Sauvignon Blanc is typically fermented in stainless steel which imparts no flavor. LIQUIDATION SITUATION On the Cover Ten rising stars charting creative new paths—and pushing for inclusivity—in the world of wine, spirits, and beer A cocktail is not a cocktail without bitters, at least, according to the May 13, 1806 edition of the Federalist newspaper in an article titled The Balance, and Columbian Repository. Though promi nent, there are few eloquent articulations of what they are. For example, the common description: "The spice of cocktails" leaves many confused. The world of bar-fresh commonly utilizes freshly grated spices such as cinnamon, nutmeg and cardamom in drinks. The definition, “the seasonings for cocktails like salt and pepper”, is conceptually accurate, but still leaves much unknown. The his torical usage of bitters as a medical remedy does not provide rel evant context either. Rather, through dissection of the history, ingredients, varieties and usages, the following definition is for mulated: Bitters are a potent, concentrated potion of fruits, roots, herbs, spices, and botanicals accented by bitter notes. A couple of dashes of aromatic bitters added to a cocktail enhance dimension, depth and provide bittersweet contrast to the accompanying liquors, fruits or other sweeteners. History: As no cocktail story is complete without it Historically, bitters were used as a medical remedy to cure ail ments. Angostura Aromatic Bitters, for example, is still used as a home remedy for stomach aches. Bitter's common "active" ingre dients of gentian and chinchona bark, in particular, have their own listing on WebMD.com. Brad Thomas Parsons, in his book A Spir ited History of a Classic Cure-All, describes bitters addition to al cohol originated in the early 1700s, when the popular bitters of the time, Saughton Bitters, were added to Canary wine or bandy. He further notes that the historical definition of the cocktail: bitters + spirit + sugar + water didn’t occur until the American Colonial pe riod, when referenced by the Balance and Columbian Repository. The bitters boom started in the 1850s and became a multi-million dollar industry complete with counterfeit copies. Parsons’s attrib uted the rise of bitters to, as quoted from cocktail historian Dave Wondrich : ". . . it allowed you to claim that you were taking your morning drink strictly for medical reasons." Ingredients Bitters = Base Flavoring + Bittering Agent + Alcohol (as a solvent) There is a diverse set of base-flavoring agents for bitters. Popu lar ones include orange, grapefruit, peach, chocolate, rhubarb and dandelion. These flavoring agents are often the initial inspira tion for bitters production. Finding one or more complimenta ry bittering agents to accentuate the flavor nuances of the base ingredient(s) is the next step. Common bittering agents include the aforementioned gentian and chinchona bark, as well as orris root and wormwood. Yes, the absinthe wormwood. Texas bar tenders, Robert Heugel and Kevin Floyd, wrote a helpful blog post titled, How to Make your Own Bitters, with a list of basic bittering agents and their taste descriptions. Once the multitude of ingre dients are selected, the next step is maceration. If operating without a recipe, macerating the ingredients in alco hol to extract flavor requires extensive trial and error to achieve optimal proportions. The process can take weeks. Procedurally, this is similar to creating an extract, except bitters are less con centrated. Jamie Boudreau, a highly regarded barman and bitters expert from Seattle, in his blog post, How to Make Bitters, sug gested blending single ingredient macerations, called tinctures, together to create bitters. This provides better proportion con trol. Lastly, unlike extracts and tinctures, bitters are . . . bitter. At least they always have a bitter component. In usage, the bitterness contrasts the sweetness of juices, syrups, and liquors in cocktails to create something bittersweet, an American flavor affinity. Categories There are two predominant categories of bitters: Aromatic Bitters and potable bitters. Potable Bitters Known as Amaro by the Italians, these bitters are aptly named because they can be consumed on the rocks or on their own due to their lower proof and the addition of sweeteners. The potable bitters category can be further broken down into aperitif bitters and digistivo bitters. The aperitif style, named due its traditional consumption as a before dinner appetite enhancer, consists of sprits such as Aperol, Campari and Cynar. Similarly, digistivo bit ters, such as Jägermeister, Fernet Branca, Ramazzotti, and Averna Amaro, are thought to aid in digestion. A Bittersweet Symphony of Flavor: Bitters and Their Usage By Brent Nakano HAWAIIBEVGUIDE.COM SEPTEMBER 2020 HAWAII BEVERAGE GUIDE 3 Aromatic Bitters Also known as cocktail bitters, are made without the sugar additive and are of a higher alcohol by volume (ABV). Mixology Bitters, similar to extracts and tinctures, provide a way to evenly disperse flavors into a cocktail that cannot be added in their natural state. For example, directly adding gentian root to a cocktail enhances your need for a toothpick without bestow ing additional flavor. Adding nutmeg does provide flavor, however, more often that not, the last half ounce of your cocktail has either no nutmeg, or is nutmeg sludge. Oftentimes when composing a cocktail, if a particular bitters is not your inspiration, they get addressed last to fill in the gaps and polish the final product. Potable bit ters, used in 1/4 oz quantities or greater and aromatic bitters used in dashes due to their higher concentration, are generally approached to: Create depth and complex ity of flavor, dry out the finish and leave the essence of the key flavoring agent(s) lingering on the pallet. For the Home Bartender: popular classic cocktails using aromatic bitters include Manhattan, Old Fashion, Pisco Sour, Rob Roy, Sazarac, Singapore Sling, Whisky Sour, Whiskey Smash, and Honolulu Cocktail. For the Professional Bartender: Bitters in high-volume establishments quickly transform "club calls" into simple, satisfying concoctions for a nominal cost. They can add a simple finishing touch, almost like Emeril's Bam! and instanta neously improve flavor, depth and com plexity. This becomes increasingly rel evant as the American pallet evolves due to advancements in the culinary scene and the absorption of craft bartending into the mainstream. Considering most bars already stock Angostura bitters, knowing how to administer the product already on hand benefits both you and the customer. Why let bitters sit somewhere on the shelf, unused or under-utilized? Bring them out! Here are some examples: Whisky & Soda: This uploads/Geographie/ 2020-09-hbg-digital-edition-web.pdf
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