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RNY INKS’ guide to fountain pen ink making. Chapter 1: The different kinds of i

RNY INKS’ guide to fountain pen ink making. Chapter 1: The different kinds of inks. Dye-based inks- Inks made with different chemical components dissolved in water. Dyes are water-soluble, making the ink not water-proof or water-resistant. These are the inks I will be discussing in this document. Examples are New Brew Inks, Vinta Inks, Pilot Iroshizuku, Ferris Wheel Press. Pigment-based inks- These are inks that uses pigments, which are insoluble, so the colorant is instead suspended in the water. These pigments are prone to precipitation and can clog your pen’s feed. Due to being insoluble in water, they are much more water-resistant, water-proof, or permanent compared to other inks. Examples are Sailor Kiwaguro, Platinum Carbon Black, De Atramentis Document Inks, Rohrer & Klinger sketchInk. Iron-Gall/Ferro-Gallic Inks – These are inks made by reacting tannic acid and iron ions. These inks oxidize when applied on paper, darkening the ink. These inks are waterproof. They are acidic and can corrode your pen with a steel nib if not cleaned regularly, to combat this, you can use a pen with a gold nib. Examples are KWZ Iron Gall Inks, TWSBI Blue-Black, Platinum Classic Citrus Black, Rohrer, and Klinger Scabiosa. Bulletproof Inks – Bulletproof inks is a special subcategory of waterproof inks made by Nathan Tardiff, the owner of Noodlers inks. It’s a cellulose reactive dye ink that forms a bond with the paper to be waterproof and permanent. They are prone to staining pens. Example: Noodler’s Baystate Blue Shimmer Inks – These are inks that sparkle on paper. Mica powder is usually used in these inks and can clog your pen’s feed. Example: J. Herbin Caroube De Chypre, J. Herbin Emerald de Chivor, Diamine Shimmertastic line. J. Herbin Caroube De Chypre Sheening Inks – Sheen is a chemical property of dye-based inks. It occurs when the dye crystalizes. An ink with sheen will have different colours as they dry. Examples are Pilot Iroshizuku Yama-Budo, Organic Studio Nitrogen Royal Blue, Colorverse Andromeda Water-resistant inks – these are inks that resist being washed out with water on your paper, they can be dye-based like Pilot’s namiki inks, pigment-based, or bulletproof. Shading inks – These are inks that shade, making one part of a letter or word darker. Examples: Rohrer & Klinger Alt-Goldrun, Noodlers Liberty Elysium. Rohrer & Klinger Alt-Goldrun Desaturated/Light inks – These are inks that are less saturated than the usual inks, they shade more compared to saturated inks, however they are harder to read. Examples: Ferris Wheel Press Inks Monochromatic inks – Inks that display only one colour, little to no sheen and shading. Example: Iroshizuku Yama-Budo Multichromatic Inks – Inks that display multiple colours when dry. Example: Sailor Studio 123 Chapter 2: Materials and Equipment For the most basic ink, you’ll only need 2 components, dye, and water. You can already use this for your pen, dip pen, inkwash, or painting. However, there will be problems with flow, the ink drying out in your fountain pen nib and feed, shelf-life. To counter these problems, you’ll need a surfactant, humectant, a biocide, or preservative. Here are the different materials you can use: Water De-ionized Water Distilled Water Boiled Water Dye FD&C Dyes Food Colorants (avoid salty ones) Procion Dyes (Cellulose Reactive) BASF Dyes (sells by the drum, hard to buy from) Surfactants Polysorbate 80 Polysorbate 20 Decyl Gluoside Sodium Laureth Sulfate Tergitol Photo-flo X-100 Glycerin (acts more as a humectant) Humectants Glycerin Propylene Glycol Urea (acts more as a deliquescent) Biocide and Preservatives Phenol (restricted chem, biocide) Germall (preservative) Dowicil 75 (preservative) EDTA acid (preservative) Salicylic Acid (preservative) Benzal Konium Chloride (preservative) Phenoxyethanol (preservative) Acnibio (preservative) Parabens (preservative) Sodium Benzonate (additive to other preservatives) Equipment 100ml or 500ml glass beaker Glass stirring rods Mg scale to 0.1 or 0.01 Small scoop PH meter 1ml syringe Water – main solvent of the ink, use either of the following three to lessen the chances of mold growth and to be safer for pens. Dyes – FD&C stands for Food, Drugs, and Cosmetics, they are the safest dyes that are easily available. Food colorants/dye, these usually contain additives like salt, lactose, or dextrose. Salt is not safe for fountain pens while lactose and dextrose are food for mold. Procion dyes are cellulose reactive dyes used for dying clothes, they form a bond with cellulose but requires a fixative to do so but is fine by themselves without bonding with cellulose. BASF dyes are one of the best dyes out there, however, they only sell dyes by the drum and are not easily available. Surfactants - helps with the flow of the ink in your pen. Polysorbates helps with the dispersion, stabilization, and as a solvent. Too much of these will make your ink too wet making your pen apply more ink to the paper more and will also increase feathering. Humectants – prevents ink crusting and drying out in your pen. It also acts as an organic solvent and will help dissolve the dye in your solution and increases the saturation point. Too much will make your ink feather more. Preservatives and Biocides - prevents the growth of mold in your ink. Inks can have mold grow in them; we call them Stuff in the Bottle (SITB). Your ink can last as short as 1 week without a preservative or biocide. Mold can be problematic to pens and can infect other inks. Alcohol (except ISP) – Can increase flow of ink and drying time, however, alcohol is deadly to fountain pens and I do not recommend using this component in your ink unless you flush/clean your pen frequently. If you do, add in small amounts to decrease the risk of damage. Mg scale – In order to have a consistent formulation and colour between batches, you need to measure by the Mg as the smallest addition of one dye can completely change the colour of your ink of course, this also depends on how strong your dye is. PH Meter – This is to monitor the ph level of your ink, best would be neutral so it won’t eat your pen. http://www.richardspens.com/ref/care/ink_ph.htm here’s a report regarding the ph of other inks. Tip: Make multiple formulations at once when testing. Don’t be afraid to modify the formulation to your liking. Dilute your surfactant before adding it to your solution. Now that you know what each component does, here are some formulations you can use. 0.5g glycerin 0.1ml Polysorbate 20 100ml Water. 0.1ml Acnibio 3g glycerol 1g alcohol 1ml concentrated paraben solution (contains: 8% methylparaben + 2% propylparaben dissolved in propylene glycol): 100 ml distilled and boiled water glycerol 25 ml isopropanol 5 ml salicylic acid 1 gram (or you can use 5 ml of "Solution parabeni cocentrata", which is 8% methylparaben + 2% propylparaben dissolved in propylene glycol) distilled water up to 500 ml (replace isopropanol and replace with a surfactant or other alcohols) 0.5g sodium benzoate 0.5g Glycerin 0.1ml Polysorbate 80 100ml Water. 0.1ml Phenoxyethanol 3g glycerol 1g alcohol 1ml concentrated paraben solution (contains: 8% methylparaben + 2% propylparaben dissolved in propylene glycol): 100 ml distilled and boiled water Chapter 3: Standard Operating Procedure and Testing Wear face masks, gloves, face goggles, lab coat, and make your ink in a room with proper ventilation. Avoid touching your face and wash your hands before and after. While these amounts of PPE can be unnecessary, being safe should be your top priority. Precipitation SOP and Testing Period: Leave your ink in a place where it cannot be disturbed and shaken for a minimum of 2 weeks, if possible, take 3 months. Dyes can precipitate out especially in heavily saturated inks. Shelf-life SOP and Testing Period: Leave your ink in a place optimum for mold growth and another in a room where mold can grow, but not thrive, such as your bedroom, living room, etc. Testing Period takes 3 months minimum. Pen safety SOP and Testing Period: Fill two or more pens with your ink, use one daily and to see if the ink is flowing well, not too wet, and not too dry or in your desired flow. See if the ink dries in a short amount of time, 10s or lower is the best drying time. Testing period takes 3 months minimum. uploads/Geographie/ inkmaking-guide.pdf