N°73 Poland - 5zł (w tym 8% VAT) UK - £5 EU (excl. Poland & UK) - €3 warsaw.iny

N°73 Poland - 5zł (w tym 8% VAT) UK - £5 EU (excl. Poland & UK) - €3 warsaw.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1641-5264 Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps WARSAW February - March 2013 February - March 2013 Easter in Poland A sacred holiday Polish-style Winter in Warsaw Great reasons to get outside “In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well- written series of guidebooks.” The New York Times  Žȱ’—Ÿ’Žȱ¢˜žȱ˜ȱ‘Žȱ ™•ŠŒŽȱ˜ȱ¢˜ž›ȱ›ŽŠ–œȱ ’‘ȱŠȱ–Š’ŒȱŠ›Ž—ȱ ‘’Œ‘ȱ •ŽŠŸŽœȱŠ—ȱž—˜›ŽĴ ȱŠ‹•Žȱ ’–™›Žœœ’˜—ȱǯǯǯȱ ǯǯǯȱ˜žȱ ’••ȱ—˜ȱ‹Žȱ ’œŠ™™˜’—Žǯ ž•ǯȱ‘˜Œ’–œ”ŠȱŝǰȱŠ›œ£Š Š Ž•ǯȱŘŘȱŞŚŞȱŗŘȱŘśǰȱŽ•ǯȦŠ¡ȱŘŘȱŞŚŞȱŗśȱşŖ ǯ›ŽœŠž›ŠŒ“Š›˜£Š—ŠǯŒ˜–ǯ™• ŽœŠž›Š—ȱ ȱȱ’œȱȱŠ—ȱŽ•ŽŠ—ǰȱŒ˜œ¢ȱŠ—ȱ ž—™›ŽŽ—’˜žœȱ›ŽœŠž›Š—ȱ ‘˜œŽȱŽ•’ŒŠŽȱŠ—ȱ •’‘ȱ˜•’œ‘ȱŒž’œ’—Žȱ ’••ȱœž›™›’œŽȱ¢˜žȱ ’‘ȱ—Ž ȱ Ě ȱŠŸ˜ž›œȱŠ—ȱœ™ŽŒ’Š•’ŽœȱŽŸŽ›¢ȱŠ¢ǯ ‘Ž›Žȱ’œȱ—˜‘’—ȱŽ•œŽȱ•’”Žȱ’ȱ’—ȱŠ›œŠ dz warsaw.inyourpocket.com 4 Warsaw In Your Pocket CONTENTS Arrival & Transport 12 The Basics 17 Culture & Events 20 Where to stay 26 Dining 32 Cafés 56 Nightlife 58 History 70 Sightseeing What to see 73 Palace of Culture and Science 85 Old Town 86 Praga 88 Warsaw Uprising 92 Jewish Warsaw 96 Treblinka 99 Łazienki 100 Wilanów 102 Chopin 105 Copernicus Science Centre 108 Leisure 110 Łódź 112 Directory Shopping 114 Directory 120 Maps & Index City centre map 123 City map 124 Country map 126 Street index 128 Listings Index 129 Feature Index 130 Contents Easter in Poland is an event, and covers several important days of religious observance like Palm Sunday and Good Friday. Being a highly Catholic country Poland takes Easter very seriously and considers it the most sacred holiday of the year. Which is exactly why they need a fun day like Easter Monday (Śmingus Dyngus in Polish) to help them recover from it. Read all about this traditional experience on page 27. Photo: Silar/Wikipedia/CC BY_SA 3.0 Winter is Warsaw’s most loathed season, but that’s only if you don’t take advantage of what the locals know – yes, that means getting outside. Embrace the temperature, toss on your puffiest coat and see why nothing keeps these people indoors in feature on page 8. Photo: Zorro2212/Wikipedia/CC BY-SA 3.0 6 Warsaw In Your Pocket FOREWORD warsaw.inyourpocket.com Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright WIYP Sp. Z o.o., IYP City Guides Sp. Z o.o. Sp.k. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). Maps Agencja Reklamowa POD ANIOŁEM Ul. Poselska 20, 31-002 Kraków agencja@pod-aniolem.com.pl Just in case you haven’t noticed: it’s winter in Warsaw! Fewer places is winter more vivid than here, with plunging temperatures and sparse sunshine making any time spent outside feel more like punishment than pleasure. But it doesn’t have to be that way! Our feature tackles the topic of how to enjoy a Warsaw winter just like the locals do (yes, we promise, for all their grumbling they do enjoy it) with plenty of activities to keep you warm inside and out. Of course the weather is a justifiable excuse to explore all of Warsaw’s warmer indoor wonders, beginning with one of our favorites: The Warsaw Uprising Museum. It’s easily the best museum in the city and on our list of can’t-miss attractions with a mix of interactive displays, original photographs, video footage and the stunning City of Ruins film to give you an idea of what post-war Warsaw was like. The Uprising is one of the proudest moments in Polish history, and this museum thoroughly captures the story, chronologically, from start to finish. If you’re visiting the city towards the end of this edition of the guide you’ll get to experience one of the surest signs of impending spring: a Polish Easter. The day itself is on March 31, but seeing as this is highly Catholic Poland you can bet that the holiday isn’t just restricted to one Sunday. There’s Palm Sunday, Good Friday, and even the kooky Easter Monday (in Polish it’s the delightfully named Śmingus Dyngus) which involves public water fights to help recover from the somberness of Easter itself. Watch your back! Of course this is also the time of year where it’s acceptable to pick a pub, pull up a seat, and drink and eat your way through popular Polish dishes since everyone can use an extra layer of fat. Our restaurants section is divided up by cuisine, so if you’re in search of pierogis flip to the Polish section and find your nearest purveyor of these savory dough pockets. As always we sincerely hope you enjoy your time in Warsaw and the guide we have put together. Be sure to like us on Facebook (facebook.com/warsawinyourpocket) and follow us on Twitter (Twitter.com/warsawiyp) for all the latest on what’s happening in the city, and you can leave comments about all the venues listed here (and more) on our website at inyourpocket.com/Poland/warsaw. And of course we welcome your direct feedback at editor_ poland@inyourpocket.com The number of cities now covered by In Your Pocket in print, online and via mobile application has climbed over 65 in some 21 countries, with an astounding 4.6 million city guides pub- lished each year. To keep up to date and show your support, ‘like’ us on Facebook (facebook.com/warsawinyourpocket) and follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/warsawiyp). The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is comple- tely subjective and independent of paid-for advertising or sponsored listings. In Your Pocket writers do not accept free meals, sexual favours, first-born children or other bribes in return for favourable reviews and reserve the right to say whatever the hell they damn well feel like about the venues listed in this guide, regardless of disagreement from advertisers, establishment owners or the general public. The editor has made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information in this guide at the time of going to press and assumes no responsibility for unforeseen changes, errors, poor service, disappointing food or terrible hangovers. Europe In Your Pocket Editorial Editor Monica Wright, Garrett Van Reed Contributing Writer Mat Fahrenholz Research Manager Anna Hojan Researchers Aneta Roszak, Maria Rulaff, Oliwia Hojan Events Anna Hojan Design Tomáš Haman Photography In Your Pocket unless otherwise stated Cover © Karol Kozłowska/pl.fotolia.com Sales & Circulation Director: Małgorzata Drząszcz 606 749 676 Kraków/Katowice/Tarnów Manager: Monika Szymanek 668 876 351 Warszawa/Łódź Manager: Marta Ciepły 606 749 643 Wrocław/Poznań Manager: Agata T rocha 606 749 642 Gdansk/Bydgoszcz Manager: Bartosz Matyjas 784 966 824 Publisher IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Sławkowska 12, 31-014 Kraków Company Office & Accounts Joanna Szlosowska 58 555 08 31 warsaw@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com Published 25,000 copies, 6 times per year Czech Republic Poland Romania Serbia Bosnia Kosovo Albania Greece FYR Macedonia Bulgaria Montenegro Italy Croatia Slovenia Austria Switzerland Ukraine Belarus Lithuania Latvia Estonia Russia Germany Belgium Netherlands Northern Ireland Ireland 8 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com WINTER IN WARSAW Taste polish tradition U Fukiera, Warszawa, Rynek Starego Miasta 27, tel. 022 831 10 13, tel./fax 022 831 58 08 www.ufukiera.pl ; O L  V S K L Z [   Y L Z [ H \ Y H U [  P U   > H Y Z H ^ asta 27, 8 an invitation from Winter either bites with its teeth or lashes with its tail. ~Japanese Proverb As we went to print Warsaw had already welcomed its old friend ‘The Frosty Monster’. The white stuff is falling steadily and estimates around -25 degrees are predicted for the coming months. No matter how long one has lived here, you’re never quite prepared for this time of year, and you never seem to remember what the previous winter was really like - that’s when it hits you like a Pershing popsicle, literally catching you with your pants down. Keep in mind that this is not the United Kingdom - so in general, planes, trains and automobiles function normally and people go about their everyday business as usual. A hardy and resilient lot the Poles; always have been, always will be. We reckon that it’s pretty safe to assume that by the time this publication hits the streets in February, Warsaw will not be in the grip of some Mediterranean-style heat wave. If we get that horribly wrong, simply tear out this page and deposit it in one of the many rubbish bins situated around the city. Assuming that we are correct, it’s time to slip on your winter woollies and let’s take a look at what you can get up to. Winter Wanders Depending on which Warsaw you’re intent on visiting, winter can have a very contrasting effect. First port of call for most visitors is obviously the Old Town (p.88), as well it should be if you’re looking for Warsaw’s winter wonderland. Empty of tourists and draped in snow, the Old Town’s castle towers, church spires and cobbled streets take on a fairy-tale majesty creating quite a mismatch with the rest of the city’s scenery. Leave the meticulously reconstructed Old Town and the cinematic atmosphere quickly shifts from Disney magic to retro uploads/Societe et culture/ warsaw-city-guide.pdf

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